![]() Having drilled a small (4mm) pilot hole, I screwed in the anchor screws, and despite going in flush to the wallpaper, they never get even slightly tight and are both able to spin in the hole, as well as being easily pulled straight out. I bought some metal anchor screws (see images linked below), which I planned to secure the bracket into. it's covered in quite thick wallpaper, and seems to have a fair depth of plaster before encountering brickwork. It's clearly a solid wall, from the feel and sound when tapping it, however I'm not sure what the specific structure is. ![]() The wall I have chosen is a dividing wall between two adjoining houses (i'd guess 1960s built, in London UK). The shelves are intended to be fixed to the wall by securing a bracket to the wall with screws, with the shelf then slotting onto metal tubes projecting from the bracket. Maybe.I'm currently attempting to install a couple of Ikea 'LACK' floating shelves, but am having difficulty with the screw fixings (metal anchors) not sitting securely in the wall, and could do with a bit of advice. Brick or block: masonry anchors, into the masonry, with long enough screws that you're not relying on the plaster for anything.Īn alternative approach would be to buy floor-standing shelving from Ikea, or buy wall-mounted shelving from a Canadian/US retailer where you'll get long metal rails that can be screwed to the wall in 4 to 6 places EACH RAIL, and then even if you use crappy anchors and don't do a good job with them, the shelves will probably stay up.Metal studs: Self tapping sheet metal screws (same proviso about length) or toggle anchors.Wood studs: Use wood screws, long enough to penetrate at least an inch into the wood after getting through the shelf bracket and all layers of plaster/drywall.To put up a shelf like that you HAVE to figure it out, you HAVE to figure out how thick the plaster/drywall coating(s) are, what is behind them, and how to get to the actual wall structure (stud, brick, whatever). with plaster over it, and who knows, maybe with drywall on top of that. brick, hollow block, solid block, poured concrete. Could be as thin as 1/2 inch drywall or as thick as two layers of drywall over old cracked plaster over fiberboard. It's either a stud wall, either wood or metal studs, with one or more layers of things on it. You must figure out how your walls are built. Image: Tenbergen at English Wikipedia, Toggle bolts, CC BY-SA 3.0 ![]() Picture frames are probably OK, a shelf full of heavy cook books might be pushing it. But you would still want to limit what you put on these shelves. ![]() They're also kind of a pain to work with, but they do hold very well. They usually require a pretty large hole anyway to get them through initially. Since the holes have already been enlarged, it seems that they might be large enough now to use a better anchor here. This is obviously very involved and messy. Another solution then might be to open up the wall and add some blocking for your shelves. It also limits where you can put things if you want things aligned/centered etc. IKEA stuff tends to not be built for standard 16" stud spacing though, so most of the time, this doesn't work anyway. Regular electronic stud finders seem to be worthless here (at least the ones I've tried). I've had the best luck with a magnetic stud finder on my plaster walls. ![]() They are most likely there, but they are difficult to find on plaster walls. The ideal solution would be to use studs. ![]()
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